Monday, September 19, 2011

Postman's Park

On Thursday, after we spent the day on the south bank, we walked across the Millennium Bridge and headed to St. Paul's Cathedral for evensong. It was disappointing because since the choir was on vacation, the service featured no music whatsoever. After such a letdown there was nothing for it but to go to next door to Paul for a hot chocolate (coffee for Sara). I believe I mentioned this coffee/bakery chain last time we were in London. The hot chocolate is thick and more chocolately than sweet - sort of like hot drinkable chocolate pudding. We went back to the churchyard and sat on a bench to drink our beverages while watching a. a man in a business suit floss his teeth and b. squirrels frolic while European tourists took their pictures.

Strength restored, we proceeded to our final scheduled venue for the day: Postman's Park. Earlier this year I read about this park in a book called The Arts and Crafts Movement in Britain by Mary Greensted. Last time we were in London, we must have actually passed it without noticing it; it's on the way from St. Paul's to the Museum of London, tucked away just before this street, Little Britain, which made such an impression on us that we took a picture of it:


Postman's Park is a burial ground that was converted into a public park; the old tombstones are stacked around the perimeter of the park:


Here's the view of Little Britain from the park:


Anyway, the thing that sets this park aside from the many lovely squares in London is this:

"G.F. Watts's Memorial to Heroic Self Sacrifice
Unveiled in 1900, this memorial to heroic self-sacrifice was conceived and undertaken by the Victorian artist George Frederick Watts OM RA (1817-1904).
It contains plaques to those who have heroically lost their lives trying to save another. Watts believed that these everyday heroes provided models of exemplary behaviour and character."

The memorial is a covered walkway with beautiful ceramic tiles, each of which honours a person who gave his or her life to save someone else.


Death by fire or drowning was very commonplace, it seems. Here are a few of the many tiles; most, as you can see, are late 1800s or maybe early 1900s, but we saw one that was dated 2007. I will let the tiles speak for themselves; although some of them are maudlin ("Mother, I saved him but could not save myself") they are nevertheless pretty moving, especially when you see a whole wall of them.












You never know what you'll find tucked away in London.

3 comments:

Julie Zickefoose said...

I now understand where Edward Gorey's Ghastlycrumb Tinies originated. This is amazing. Heartrending and yet funny, in a laughing-during-a-funeral way. Ack! I don't know how to feel about it. But I want one of these tiles for my kitchen.

KGMom said...

What a totally cool post...except, um, there's a small spelling mistake (or maybe not).

I quote from your post: "Postman's Park is a burial ground that was converted into a pubic park".

Nothing has been altered, unless you correct it, which means later readers will wonder.

Murr Brewster said...

Bless yore heart, Donna, I never noticed it. As a blogger, I depend on people like you to find this stuff. You can read your own things all day long and skip right over the boo-boos, but apparently I can read my friends' stuff too and re-chasten it all.

That said, what a cool park! I lived for a year on a street in S. Kensington that looked a lot like your street picture. I would probably get more out of London if I went as a tourist for a week now than I did living there for a year, when I was mainly concerned with learning how to drink to excess.